In the last article, we were on our way from Casablanca to Meknes, an ancient Roman cultural city for over ten centuries. Here, we encountered our first medina (an old walled city with a maze of streets filled with colorful stalls) with a signature arched entrance, with intricate carvings, created in early 1700’s known as Bab el-Mansour. This medina is a UNESCO heritage site, with over 50 kilometers of walls and lots of ancient ruins. One of the most interesting sites are ruins of a mammoth granary and stables to keep over 12,000 horses, created by the ruling sultan, Moulay Ismail, who ruled for over 50 years (1672 to 1727).
Our next stop, Volubilis, was a totally unexpected surprise. Here you discovered ancient Roman ruins from 3rd century BC lasting into the 14th AD spread out over many acres in the countryside outside of Meknes. They even included many colorful, well preserved floor mosaics along with several temple sites stilled lined with beautiful columns. Great photo ops! Today, this too is a UNESCO heritage site.
Finally, to Fez where we encountered our first riad. What a great experience! Our driver left us off on a crowded main road and we walked with him through some narrow streets twisting and turning finally pausing at a heavy wooden door hidden away in a shadowy passage. We had no idea what to expect but behind a few columns we saw a lovely interior patio with high glass ceiling, and lots of pale sunshine coming through. A riad is basically an old Moroccan home turned into a small boutique hotel. Here there were two levels around the patio, with each room different but in typical Moroccan décor of reds, carved wood, heavy fabrics and a very updated bathroom. What a charming place! We enjoyed some lovely Moroccan wine (both white and red, you might remember our first experience with Moroccan wines was in Tangier) and a specially prepared dinner in the central patio. Breakfast was lovely too and made to order.
Fez is a city from the medieval ages, and the heart of it is the old medina city Fez El Bali, a UNESCO site. Inside, one finds one of the most amazing souks (word for Arab market) with tiny narrow passages, hardly room for people plus stalls of every single type imaginable, plus wooden doors indicating where some people live. The labyrinth of passageways demands that one go with a guide as we wandered through tanneries, welding areas, jewelry, food, clothes and anything else you can conjure up. No cars or vehicles are allowed... only people, donkeys loaded with goods coming in from the streets, wooden pushcarts and a few motorcycles dangerously proceeding. Once out of the old medina, you can ride to the top of a hill and look across at Fez El Jedid (New Fez) which was built in 13th century. This is worth a visit to see the Royal Palace (not possible to enter but you can enjoy gardens outside of massive walls), as well as an old Jewish quarter.
The Atlas Mountains are a prominent geographical feature in Morocco. They are a series of ranges which divide the Atlantic from the Mediterranean and separate the Sahara Desert from the coastal areas. To reach the Sahara Desert, we left Fez and drove towards the Middle Atlas Mountains, stopping in a beautiful mountain town which almost seemed like we were in Switzerland! From there, we descended downward to the desert where our driver/guide dropped us off at the side of the road with a Bedouin driver with a four-wheel vehicle to take us out to the dunes. What an experience! Out of nowhere, with wind blowing fiercely, we met our waiting camels. Our camels came with a Bedouin who guided us and our camels in his bare feet! Scarves around your head are a must and our guide ensured we tied them in the proper way. Sunglasses, or perhaps goggles, are a must to keep the stinging sand out of your eyes. No words can describe this experience, making us imagine we were traders centuries ago crossing this remote area. After a long ride, we came upon our tent camp. What a welcome! They were waiting for us with Moroccan wine, local music by Bedouins and of course the typical Moroccan meal... tagine and couscous. But most importantly the sun was ready to provide the most perfect sunset imaginable as our camels rested! The next morning, they set up breakfast on a dune as sun arose. Perfect! Watch for my closing article next month.
Linda Stack owns Travelinda, LLC. She lives in SaddleBrooke and can be reached by email at llstack9497@gmail.com.
A new Trader Joe's to open in midtown Tucson
